Indoor plants
Monstera deliciosa care: complete guide
How to grow Monstera deliciosa indoors: light, watering, repotting, feeding, propagation and solutions to the most common problems.
Updated on 2026-07-14 · 8 min read
Monstera deliciosa is probably the most iconic houseplant of the last decade: enormous fenestrated leaves, generous growth, adaptable to many environments. It's also one of the easiest to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. In this guide we'll cover everything you need to grow a healthy, imposing Monstera at home.
Origin and traits
Native to the rainforests of Mexico and Central America, Monstera deliciosa is a climbing vine that in nature scales tree trunks with aerial roots. Its leaves develop fenestrations (the famous "holes") only with maturity and in good light: a young monstera or one kept in shade produces intact leaves, and that's normal.
Light
Monstera loves plenty of bright indirect light. The ideal spot is near an east- or west-facing window, receiving diffused light for most of the day. Avoid direct midday sun (especially in summer): it burns the leaves.
In low light the plant survives, but produces small leaves without fenestrations and long thin stems. If your monstera is leggy, move it to a brighter spot.
Watering
Water when the top 3-4 cm of substrate is dry — generally weekly in spring-summer, every 10-14 days in autumn-winter. Water generously and let excess drain, then empty the saucer.
Monstera tolerates a bit of drought better than excess water: root rot is its main indoor problem. The most common sign of overwatering is yellowing lower leaves.
Humidity and temperature
Ideal temperature: 18-27°C. Below 15°C growth slows sharply; below 10°C it suffers. It doesn't tolerate cold drafts near windows or AC.
Air humidity: prefers 50-60%. In dry flats (especially winter with heating), mist the leaves with room-temperature water 2-3 times a week or use a humidifier.
Substrate and repotting
It loves a light, rich, well-draining substrate: a mix of all-purpose soil, perlite, chopped bark and a bit of peat. Repot every 2 years in spring, in a pot 3-4 cm larger.
As it grows, Monstera needs a vertical support: a moss or coco pole for stems to rest on and aerial roots to grip. With a pole the plant produces much larger leaves.
Fertilising
From March to September, feed every 3-4 weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser for foliage plants, diluted to 50% of the label dose. Suspend in autumn-winter.
Propagation
Monstera propagates easily by cutting. Cut a stem section with at least one leaf and one node (with the aerial root attached, if possible). Place the cutting in a jar of clean water: within 3-4 weeks it will produce white roots. When roots reach 5-8 cm, transfer the cutting into a pot with suitable substrate.
Common problems
- Yellow leaves: almost always overwatering. Reduce watering and check drainage.
- Leaves with brown tips: air too dry or very hard water. Raise humidity and use standing water.
- Small leaves without holes: the plant is young or gets too little light. Move to a brighter spot.
- Leaves with brown patches: sunburn from direct sun. Move to indirect light.
- Long thin stems: leggy from low light. Needs more light and ideally a support.
- Mealybugs in axils: remove with a cotton swab and alcohol, treat with potassium soap. See the mealybug guide.
Fun fact
In nature Monstera deliciosa produces an edible fruit (hence "deliciosa"), similar to an elongated cob, with a flavour reminiscent of pineapple and banana. Indoors, flowering is very rare and requires a large mature specimen.