How to repot a plant: step-by-step guide

When to repot

Signs it's time to repot:

• Roots poking out of the drainage holes or visible on the surface.
• The plant dries out very quickly after watering, as if the pot were full of roots and little soil.
• Slowed or stalled growth, even in the favourable season.
• The pot deforms or cracks under root pressure.
• It's been 2-3 years since the last repot (or since you bought it).

The right time of year

The ideal window is spring (March-May), when the plant is waking up and putting out new roots. Early summer also works for most species.

Avoid: mid-winter repotting (the plant is dormant and can't easily heal root damage), repotting during flowering (stress makes flowers and buds drop), repotting a plant just brought home from the nursery (wait 2-3 weeks for acclimation).

How to choose the new pot

The rule is: the new pot should be 2-3 cm larger in diameter than the old one, no more. The most common mistake is putting a small plant in a huge pot thinking "it'll grow more": actually the excess substrate stays wet and encourages root rot.

Material: terracotta is porous, breathes and dries faster — ideal for plants that hate excess water (succulents, cacti, snake plant). Plastic retains moisture longer — ideal for plants that love consistently moist substrate (calatheas, ferns). Make sure the pot has proper drainage holes.

The right substrate for each plant type

• All-purpose with perlite: great for most houseplants (pothos, monstera, ficus, philodendrons, dracaena).
• Succulent and cactus mix: more sand and pumice, maximum drainage.
• Orchid mix: pine bark, without actual soil.
• Ericaceous mix: acidic substrate (pH 4-5) for gardenias, hydrangeas, azaleas, camellias.
• Herb / vegetable mix: lighter substrate with peat and compost for potted basil, parsley and other herbs.

Repotting procedure step by step

• 1) Prepare everything: new pot, fresh substrate, clean scissors, a work surface (newspaper or cloth).
• 2) Water lightly the day before: slightly moist substrate slides out more easily and roots are less fragile.
• 3) Slide the plant out by tilting the pot gently and supporting the plant base. If it won't come out, tap the pot on the edges or run a knife along the inside.
• 4) Inspect the roots. Cut off any rotten, black or dry roots with clean scissors. Gently loosen the rootball if it's very compact (without breaking its structure).
• 5) Add a 2-3 cm layer of substrate to the bottom of the new pot.
• 6) Place the plant in the centre at the right height (the collar — where roots meet stem — should stay about 1-2 cm below the pot rim).
• 7) Fill the sides with new substrate, gently pressing with your fingers. Don't compact too much: roots need oxygen.
• 8) Water moderately to settle the substrate. Top up any gaps that appear after the first watering.
• 9) Place the plant in indirect light for a week and temporarily reduce watering. The plant needs to regenerate roots before resuming its normal rhythm.

Repotting large plants (that you can't actually repot)

For large plants (big ficus, kentia, mature monsteras) that are hard to move, instead of a full repot you can topdress: gently remove the top 3-5 cm of substrate and replace it with fresh mix. Repeat yearly in spring. It's less effective than a full repot but enough to keep the plant healthy for years.

Common mistakes

• Pot too large: the number-one cause of rot after repotting.
• Wrong substrate for the species (e.g. all-purpose soil for an orchid).
• No drainage holes in the pot.
• Repotting at the wrong time (winter, flowering).
• Compacting the substrate too much around the roots.
• Planting too deep: a buried collar rots.
• Fertilising right after repotting: fresh substrate already contains nutrients — wait at least 4-6 weeks.