Indoor plants
Calathea care: complete guide for a demanding plant
How to grow Calathea indoors: humidity, water, light and how to avoid the typical problems of prayer plants.
Updated on 2026-07-14 · 8 min read
Calatheas are among the most fascinating houseplants: leaves streaked with green, purple, silver and cream that move to the rhythm of light (which is why they're called "prayer plants": in the evening they lift their leaves as if praying). They're also among the most demanding: dry air, hard water, direct light or cold drafts make them suffer quickly. With the right care they are spectacular.
Origin and traits
Native to the understorey of South American rainforests, calatheas are used to filtered light, very high air humidity (80-90%) and consistently moist substrate. The most common indoor species: Calathea orbifolia (large silvery round leaves), Calathea medallion (oval leaves with a metallic pattern), Calathea lancifolia (rattlesnake, wavy lanceolate leaves), Calathea zebrina (zebra-striped leaves), Calathea makoyana (leaves with a geometric pattern).
Light
Medium indirect light: in the understorey they live in the shade of taller vegetation. Strictly avoid direct sun, which fades and burns the leaves. Ideal: 1-2 metres from an east- or north-facing window.
Watering
Consistently moist substrate but never soaked. Water when the top 2 cm is dry — generally every 3-5 days in spring-summer, every 5-7 in autumn-winter. Never leave the pot sitting in a saucer of standing water.
Water is critical: calatheas are very sensitive to chlorine and limescale. They quickly develop brown tips and leaf spots. Use rainwater, demineralised or filtered water at room temperature.
Air humidity: the key factor
Humidity decides whether your calathea will be spectacular or struggle. It wants at least 60%, ideally 70-80%. Normal homes in winter with heating drop to 30-40%: result — brown tips, curling leaves.
How to raise humidity: humidifier (best solution), pebble tray with water (water evaporates below the plant), daily misting with soft water, grouping plants (they create a humid microclimate), bathroom or kitchen as naturally more humid rooms.
Temperature
18-24°C. Doesn't tolerate temperatures below 15°C or thermal swings. Absolutely away from drafty windows in winter and direct AC flow in summer.
Substrate and repotting
Light, rich substrate that holds moisture yet drains well: mix of all-purpose soil, peat, perlite and a bit of chopped bark. Repot every 2 years in spring, in a pot 2-3 cm larger.
Fertilising
In spring-summer, every 4 weeks with a very diluted balanced liquid fertiliser (half dose). Calatheas are sensitive to salt build-up: prefer low doses more often.
Common problems
- Brown crispy tips: air too dry or hard water. Raise humidity and change the water.
- Curling leaves: dry air or thirst. Mist and check the substrate.
- Leaves fading: too much direct light or cold. Move to a shadier, sheltered spot.
- Leaves staying down even during the day: stress from wrong watering (too dry or too wet) or plant is cold.
- Spider mites: calatheas are among the most attacked. See the spider mite guide — prevention through high humidity.
- Mealybugs: less common but possible. Standard alcohol + potassium soap treatment.
The evening ritual
If your calathea is happy, every evening you'll see the leaves slowly lift toward the vertical and lower again in the morning. It's nyctinastic movement, a natural mechanism tied to the plant's circadian rhythm. If the leaves stop moving, or stay down even at night, something is off: almost always water, light or cold stress.